One of the main drawbacks of my Love At First Scent videos is hinted at in their name: they’re all about first impression. I often try to point out during the broadcasts that all perfumes must be allowed to take us on the entirety of their journey at least once before we make firm judgements about them. But of course, the very nature of modern perfumery means that a scent’s initial personality tends to remain largely unchanged during the course of its development: what you get at the start is usually a strong indicator of what you’re left with at the end. However, there are several contemporary fragrances that alter with the passage of time, revealing unexpected facets as they go along, in the manner of compositions from yesteryear. And two recent examples happened to be featured in the same Love At First Scent video: Chanel’s new Exclusif, 1957, and Christine Nagel’s first foray into Hermès’ ‘garden’ series, Un Jardin Sur La Lagune.
The former is, to my mind, less interesting than the Hermès, at least as far as ‘the slow reveal’ is concerned, and I mention it today mainly for the sake of fairness and completeness. As it approaches its drydown, it displays a stronger-than-expected vetivert note next to its musk-laden honey and florals. But it remains a bloodless piece of work, as meaningful as a compliment from someone who certainly has a way with words, but whose opinion you don’t value one bit.
La Lagune is a rather different affair. Its opening of marine lily notes suggests it’s going to do little more than hover above the translucent, upper reaches of the Venetian garden which reportedly inspired Christine Nagel. And while it’s in that territory, you can’t help but read it as a touch simplistic. But as it develops, it appears to travel downwards, easing closer and closer to the ground, until the lily and white floral notes (shades of Le Jardin De Monsieur Li) become more enveloping and – together with the woods in the base – turn into a protective veil. From staring up into the sky, you’re invited to lie down on the earth and absorb the totality of the space around you, feeling all its elements make contact with your skin. Yes, the amber-wood materials in the drydown have probably been overused (Nagel seems to have a penchant for them) but at least they perform a clear function conceptually, and they’re part of a whole that quietly requests to be experienced from start to finish. Love at first scent is all well and good, but there’s no substitute for a long-term commitment.
[Reviews based on samples provided by Hermès and Chanel in 2019.]
PS In apparent contradiction to what I’ve just written about my live videos, I’m planning (hoping?) to mark the fact that Love At First Scent has reached its 30th episode, by broadcasting a short instalment every day for a week, probably starting next week. Stay tuned to my social media channels for more details.
Translated Show original Show translation
Top Review 23
the small island paradise
Morning silence still lies over the lagoon, which is broken only now and then by the call of a water bird. Many of them are still bobbing around sleepily; they look as if they don't know exactly if they want to start the day or if they are dreaming something else. That's why they paddle sluggishly through the almost standing wet. For yet a fine gauze spider lies above the water. The towers and houses of the not-so-distant city seem shadowy in this light fog - as if they were floating. But also the islands are not yet ready to open the curtain of the night completely: they only slowly face the first light of day. However, this fine golden ray nevertheless begins, stubbornly as for eternities, to assert its claim quietly and successfully.
In this humid silence lies the scent of wood: of humid wood emanating from the small old rowing boat, which is now striving towards its destination in the lagoon with a steady beat. From there, a green, garden-like island, this wood aroma mixes with that of the stacked wood piles, which lie in the sun near the simple investor to dry. One day a new boat will be built out of it; built again with one's own hands, one's own knowledge of the power of water.
The more the sun fingers conquer the day, the more intense these two aromas become. Also now the first soft breeze rises; the sea, beyond the narrow headland that borders the lagoon, greets our rower and the day with wet coolness. The more the boat approaches the island, the more intense the scent of the green garden becomes: the longed-for coolness of the shady green announces its fragrant charm as a warm welcome. Surrounded by his very own world of fragrances, green, spicy and still soaked in light moisture, he enters his paradise. Only a few steps and the heart with the white wooden house is reached: it stands on the clearing, where everything blooms, surrounded by amazingly dense trees. Spring morning holds a quiet court here: a hint of the last fine aroma of the waxy magnolia blossom floats above everything. It won't be long before they too will have to bow to the power of summer. But she still weaves her slightly bitter sweetness with that of the enchanting white Madonna lily blossoms. Their heavy, often intoxicating magic of the night is already somewhat weakened. Their crowns are already a little crooked, they seem tired. This early hour does not call for opulence: the day is still young, it still feels its way easily towards what should and will become.
With "Un Jardin sur la Lagune", Hermès leaves it up to you to decide in which island world you want to find your own fragrant paradise. The scents are so neutral: this garden could be almost anywhere. It is worthwhile to follow this cleverly placed trail: it will not be a very long journey; the durability of this fragrance is not very pronounced. Also, he certainly lacks the sophistication or elegance that is automatically expected from this brand. Perhaps too much is simply expected, with each new composition the familiar, the classical is immediately called upon and thus the boy is immediately confronted with a mirror in which he cannot recognize himself at all.
"Un Jardin sur la Lagune" is too light, too much "water, island and garden" to stick long. And yet on warm days, like this one and those that will follow, this spider's scent is a very pleasant companion. The woody spice with the light sea breeze that caresses the skin, the green and the flowers of the garden give a feeling of cleanliness and lightness. An extremely likeable island of fragrance is created here.