It’s safe to say that when most people put on an outfit, they want it to not only convey a sense of self-assuredness, but also imbue themselves with greater confidence. This is particularly true for women who, in the present-day, are facing near-constant challenges to their bodily and social freedoms. This seemed to be a fact that Nicolas Ghesquière was acutely aware of when crafting his latest collection for Louis Vuitton. Simply put, for the brand’s Resort 2023 show, Ghesquière presented a wardrobe that conveyed an unadulterated sense of female empowerment fit for a modern-day race of Amazon warriors.
The show was held at the Salk Institute, which is located just outside of San Diego, California, at sunset. Designed by Louis Kahn in 1965, the Salk Institute is one of the world’s most renowned Brutalist structures, featuring a stark, geometric construction. Thus, with the setting sun reflecting off of the concrete exterior, it provided a contemporary, almost mythic ambiance for the show.
The collection itself fit the location perfectly. Ghesquière cleverly used a variety of shimmering fabrics and metallic embellishments that beautifully reflected the waning sunlight. Silver, blue, and orange paillettes featured heavily and silver and gold PVC-like materials made frequent appearances. For instance, one look saw large silver sequins covering a square-shaped crop top and mini skirt, while another saw an oversized, textured gold coat layered over a pair of knee-high brown leather boots.
Per usual, Ghesquière also used the collection to play with volume and structure. The opening looks saw three dresses with voluminous skirts and strong shoulders emerge in an assortment of sparkling fabrics. Likewise, most of the ensembles that followed featured prominent, square shoulders that conveyed a sense of power and boldness. This was particularly true for the closing three looks, which all made a statement with glittery boleros that had wide, elevated shoulders. Draping was another prominent element of the collection. Several looks included a ruched or draped skirt, headscarf, or blouse, adding an element of contrast to the largely geometric nature of the collection.
Aside from being mesmerizing and thought-provoking, Louis Vuitton’s Resort 2023 show was incredibly empowering. With every look, the models, which included AIRCR covergirl Lous and the Yakuza and Olympic gold medalist freestyle skier Eileen Gu, were transformed into fierce, futuristic goddesses. Thus, it’s clear that Ghesquière recognized the increasing need for women to feel powerful in every aspect of their lives, including their clothing. Further, by channeling the aesthetics and silhouettes of mythical warriors, he also acknowledged the present mobilization of women who must fight for their rights and independence. Simply put, Louis Vuitton’s latest collection was not only visually stunning and intriguing, but, more importantly, it was necessary.
Click through to see every look from the Louis Vuitton Resort 2023 show.
Just before sundown on Thursday as the Louis Vuitton resort collection was ready to debut in the plaza of the Salk Institute of Biological Studies overlooking the Pacific Ocean in La Jolla, California, all eyes turned skyward to look at a flock of rambunctious seagulls chasing the camera drones hovering over the runway.
Nature does put on a good show.
Which is one reason why Nicolas Ghesquière was drawn to California once again to present his resort collection for the French fashion house. That and the dramatic Brutalist architecture of the research institute founded by vaccine pioneer Jonas Salk and designed by architect Louis Kahn.
The mirror-image blocky concrete buildings with a trickling “River of Life” running through the center plaza, and out to the ocean beyond, made for a superbly scenic backdrop, which is really what resort shows are all about: the photo op.
Ghesquière’s runway gestures were equally grand. The collection was inspired by the California landscape, desert nomads and surf rats, with his signature sci-fi cinematic touches right at home against the stark sunset vista.
“We decided to write in the text that the guest of honor is the sun — we went at two or three different times of the day, and I wanted the clothes to interact with the light. It’s a very simple principle, but also so important how you protect yourself in this day of global warming,” Ghesquière said during a preview of the Sun Ra-meets-skater park collection, with goddess robes and draped linen skirts, water sports’ vivid graphic and spray colored crop tops, close-fitting jackets and sneaker booties.
Ghesquière was eager to discuss materials and textures, and they dazzled, from molten lava jacquards to glam fish scale-like sequins to prints made from photographs of the Salk Institute buildings taken using thermal cameras.
On the one hand, his designs can sometimes be hard to digest, so fantasy-like that they border on costume, and with seemingly little consideration to how a woman might feel wearing a metallic jacquard ceremonial robe adding so much heft and girth, for example, or a bolero resembling a paraglider, dripping crystal fringe, as cool as that was.
Then again, why are we wasting time with a fashion runway if it’s not going to challenge our perception, pushing the now-ubiquitous crop top in a more glam, sculptural and ornamental direction, or conjuring Lawrence of Arabia by way of the yoga studio, with wrapped linen tunics and half skirts layered over stretch pants and sneakers?
There was plenty to spark the imagination and enough street-ready pieces, too, like the gold cargo pants, ribbed metallic knit camis, glittering criss-cross bandage tops and hulking steel-toe combat boots draped in silver chains, that will no doubt be coming to a celebrity Instagram feed soon.
After Ghesquière took his bow, rather than running for the exits, the crowd — including Ava DuVernay, Ana de Armas, Léa Seydoux, Chloë Grace Moretz and many more — rushed to the cliff’s edge to capture selfies as the sun dipped below the horizon. The show wasn’t over yet.